work 001

Vulnerability

What am I doing, why am I trying to do it (Tandem Surfing)

 

Where is the light at the end of the barrel, 

We pulled into a deep one a really deep one, 

It’s at least double overhead and the only option is to pull in and hope we get spat out,

But we don’t get spat out, not on this one.

It closes in on us and we get thrown over three or four times, 

Stay calm. 

Count. 

1, 

2, 

3, 

Ok start to swim up now 

Kick those legs and swim towards the light 

 

Gasp of air, gather yourself, 

Don’t panic. 

We need to get back out the back 

We paddle,

Left, right, left, right 

Duck 

Left right, left, right 

Duck 

 

Is it easier for you to surf this wave yourself?

Or

Does it help that I am trying to ride this wave with you? 

We haven’t gotten the hang of it yet and I feel like I don’t have the right to be on the back of your board,

But allow me to understand 

Give me direction and I will follow 

Give me a wave to paddle onto and i’ll paddle just as hard as you so that we make that drop 

 

Here comes one now, 

Should we go, 

It’s big, 

Bigger than the last one, 

We turn and go, 

We paddle hard, harder than the last one, 

The harder propel the water beneath us now, the easier the drop will be, 

You can feel that rush as the wave picks us up and moves us forward

We rise close to the top of the lip and jump to our feet 

The drop is steep and we look down the line, 

 

We pull in again, this time we are deeper than the last one 

That hole at the end is getting smaller and smaller, 

All we can do now is grab the left side of the board and just hope that our line and speed will make it to that light at the end of the tunnel, 

We’ve done everything right together and it’s now up to mother nature to decide our fate, 

Be present, 

We will find that light.